Universal Genève Polerouter Ref. 20214 – Early Bumper Automatic with Crosshair Dial (1954)

The Universal Genève Polerouter was introduced in 1954 in collaboration with Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS)and designed by a then only 24-year-old Gérald Genta. Created for the new polar flight routes, the Polerouter was developed to offer improved resistance against the strong magnetic fields encountered near the North and South Poles.

This early Ref. 20214 dates from the first year of production and features a gold-plated stainless steel case paired with a striking black crosshair dial and warm golden chapter ring. The dial has developed an even patina over time, with the original tritium on the hands beautifully aged and the dial lume plots almost fully faded — giving the watch an honest and highly attractive vintage character.

Inside beats the Universal Genève Cal. 138SS bumper automatic, the movement used in the earliest Polerouter models before the later micro-rotor calibers became the signature of the line.

With its aviation history, early Genta design, and wonderfully preserved dial, this Polerouter is a charming and collectible example of one of Universal Genève’s most important models.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL:

• original never touched black dial in good condition with cross hair layout
• original hands & dial
  
• evenly aged tritium lume on hands
  
• lume plots on dial almost disappeared 
• even developed patina throughout the dial

STRAP & BUCKLE:

• black GOLDAMMER KARDINAL Lizard Embossed Leather Watch Strap fitting up to 20 cm wrist size / 2 mm thick
• yellow gold plated GOLDAMMER buckle

CASE:

• great overall condition, showing regular traces of wear
• 3- body gold plated stainless steel case with screw-down case back
• 35 mm (without crown) / 44 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
• year: 1954
• reference: 20214
• total weight: 44g

MOVEMENT:

• Universal Geneve Caliber 138SS - Bumper automatic
• 17 jewels, 18000 A/h, 36 hours power reserve
  
• professionally serviced 05/2026
• +4 sec/d / 270°

BOX & PAPERS:

• GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
• GOLDAMMER box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1552