Universal Genève Polerouter 104503 — 18k Yellow Gold, Black Crosshair Dial (1960s)

Genta’s First Icon — where mid-century elegance meets pioneering watch design.

Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the Universal Genève Polerouter quickly became a symbol of technical innovation and modernist design. Developed for Scandinavian Airlines’ polar routes, it was engineered to withstand magnetic fields while embodying a new era of streamlined elegance.

This rare Ref. 104503 represents one of the most refined iterations of the Polerouter line. The 18k yellow gold case is beautifully proportioned with slim lugs and a timeless 34 mm profile. Its untouched black crosshair dial delivers striking contrast and sophistication — a design language that feels both vintage and contemporary.

The presence of the original UG-signed crown and matching gold-plated buckle makes this example particularly desirable for collectors.

Inside beats the legendary Caliber 215 micro-rotor, a groundbreaking automatic movement known for its thin architecture and efficiency — a true milestone in horological engineering.

A historically important piece that captures the birth of Genta’s design legacy.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL

• original never touched black dial in great condition
• original hands and UG signed crown
  

STRAP & BUCKLE:

• matte black GOLDAMMER Kardinal leather strap fitting up to 20 cm wrist size / 2 mm thick
• gold plated GOLDAMMER buckle

CASE:

• great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
• 3- body 18k yellow gold case with screw-down case back
• 34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
• year: 1960s
  
• reference: 104503
• total weight: 53 g

MOVEMENT:

• Universal Geneve Caliber 215 - automatic microtor
• 28 jewels, 18000 A/h, 57 hours power reserve
  
• professionally serviced 11/2025
• +2 sec/d / 290°

BOX & PAPERS:

• GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
• GOLDAMMER box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1238